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Wine Cellar : : : : : : :
week of July 7, 2008

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In Praise of Vouvray on a Hot Summer Day

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What’s better than a friend and a lazy afternoon to talk? Add a bottle of Vouvray, a crisp white wine with a packed-with-fruit taste, and life is perfect. Vouvray is made from the Chenin Blanc grape and hails from the Loire Valley in France. It can appear in a full range of styles from still to sparkling and from dry to sweet. It’s perfect all by itself, or pairs beautifully with lighter fare, like fresh salads, goat cheese, grilled chicken and pork tenderloin. When you drink a Vouvray that tends towards the sweeter side, match a glass with moderately spicy Asian food – especially Thai. Vouvray and Indian are super, too. Typical Dry Chenin Blanc has aromas of pineapple, apricot, butterscotch or honey, with just a whiff of flowers. It tastes like a ripe juicy pear with a hint of honey and almonds. Soft and velvety with a quality and complexity that is irresistible for the price, much Vouvray sells for less than $15 for a bottle. Both the Barton & Guestier (B&G), and the Sauvion brand are very accessible just about anywhere in the U.S.

Chenin Blanc goes by the name of Steen in South Africa, where the first vines were planted in 1654. Lemony and easy to drink, the wine doesn’t suffer from too much acidity. Think about it as a smooth, satiny alternative to Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. If you are looking for Chenin Blanc in your neighborhood store try KWV Steen, or my favorite: Ken Forrester Petit Chenin. Both of these good value wines are made from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes.

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I’ll circle back to our shores by also recommending a couple of Chenin Blancs from California. These wines are not the insipient Chenin Blancs that were around in the 70s. Today California Chenin Blancs are crisp, complex and refreshing. Seek out one from Sonoma’s Dry Creek Vineyard or try Bogle Vineyards in Mendocino. For about $5 more, but still under $15 try the Pine Ridge Winery Chenin Blanc Viognier Blend – it’s delicious.

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Chenin Blanc should be chilled and is best served as an aperitif or with lighter foods. For the price you can’t go wrong. Raise a glass today!